AUGUST 2008
Finca Santa Anita
by Travis Harvey
A short ride on the Xelajú chicken bus line
to Colomba reveals a luscious changing landscape, a welcome thickening
of the air and views of dozens of coffee fincas that line the pacific
slope. Such enterprises make Guatemala the worlds 8th largest producer
of coffee, but where does all the money go? Certainly not into the hands
of hardworking campesinos that generally live in average to appalling
conditions, earning around US$3 a day toiling in pesticide- and fertilizer-contaminated
grounds whilst owners reap the profits of the world’s caffeine
addiction.
Some post peace accord communities provide exceptions to this rule,
among them Santa Anita La Unión, an ex-guerilla community growing
organic coffee destined for the fair trade market.
Disembarking at Colomba raised a few local eyebrows, but standing out
as gringos had us quickly directed to a pickup passing the community.
Having called ahead, we arrived to be welcomed into a family home, where
we downed some much-needed calories for the walking tour. We set out
quickly before the rains set in and were struck by the botanical fecundity
of Santa Anita. Our guide schooled us on all things organic, including
how to make pesticide from fermented chichicaste, garlic and chili,
the true nature of banana plants and many other campesino secrets.
After refreshing ourselves at the waterfall, we toured the processing
plant and tostaduría, then ended with a cup of the finished product.
Later we met with a community member who explained why he joined the
movement, the community’s philosophy and the general situation
of the coffee trade in Guatemala.
Dinner back in the family home assured our exhaustion, so we set to
bed. The morning brought us sunrise over Vulcan Santiaguito and a hearty
breakfast before heading home. Quite a weekend.
Day tours to Santa Anita are run through Café Conciencia (5047-2238)
or you can call Andrea in Santa Anita on 5381-2416 and make your own
way from the Minerva terminal. Volunteers are always welcome to contribute
to the community (and receive discount rates) with their own skills
or work in coffee cultivation. For more info, check www.santaanitafinca.com.
PAST TRIPS...
MAY
2008
Playing With Fire
by Kathi Dunkel
The most active volcano in Central America, there are many ways for
Xela's inhabitants and visitors to glimpse Santiaguito's frequent eruptions.
From the suburb of Llanos del Pinal, an easy and well maintained trail
leads to a beautiful grassy lookout halfway around Santa Maria. Here
it is possible to watch the spectacular eruptions on a clear day after
only two hours of moderate walking.
Another very popular perspective is from the summit of Santa Maria.
From the same starting point as the walk to the Mirador, one can take
a strenuous three to five hour climb to the peak. From there, hikers
can actually see into the crater from above, close enough for a glimpse
yet far enough to still be safe from the gases. It' s good to get an
early start, as Santa Maria likes to collect clouds around her from
the late morning into the early afternoon, covering the much lower Santiaguito
underneath a white blanket.
More adventurous hikers, fearing neither sweat nor lava, have dared
to follow the Mirador trail further, descending the steep slope of Santa
Maria towards Santiaguito and climbing up streams of petrified lava
onto the enchanted moonscape of the inner craters. Just imagine trudging
through a meteoric landscape, a place where one would not be surprised
to meet a dinosaur or Gollum from Lord of the Rings, between steaming
vents and resilient ferns. The crater offers an incredible view of the
lava bursting out like fireworks, glowing rocks rolling down the slopes
and ashes bursting from the mountain' s liquid heart.
If that sounds a bit too close, you can also head to the foot of the
mountain. It is only an hour long bus ride from Xela to Palmar in the
tropical lowland heat of Retalhuleu. From there, take a pickup to Viejo
Palmar, a ghost town destroyed by volcanic mud- and lava-slides called
" lahars." Lying out under the stars and ash rains at night,
you' ll be able to watch impressive eruptions with lava rocks falling
out of the crater and breaking into millions of glowing sparks covering
the slope of the mountain.
Kathi works as a volunteer guide with Quetzaltrekkers, a non-profit,
all-volunteer trekking group based out of Casa Argentina in Xela.
APRIL
2008
Xocomil Water Park
It' s finally warming up around Xela, and what better way to enjoy
the sun than to drift around in an inner tube or fly down a water slide?
To get to Xocomil Water Park, take a bus toward Retalhuleu - known
locally as " Reu" - and get off at kilometer 180.5 on the
pacific coast road. The driver will know what you' re talking about.
Travel by chicken bus is ideal: by the time you disembark from a packed
bus via the coast road, you' ll be ready for a shower. Xocomil is part
of the IRTRA (Recreational Institute for the Private Enterprise Laborers)
Parks, which provide free access to employees of certain Guatemalan
businesses. Sadly, the XelaWho is not affiliated, so we had to pay Q75
for the day.
The best part about Xocomil is the variety. If you love the ocean but
can' t stand sand in your bathing suit or fear the riptide of the Pacific
coast, you should check out the wave pool, which holds over a million
gallons of water. If you like lazy afternoons floating down a river
in an inner tube, but don' t want to travel all the way to Semuc Champey,
Tumala, their river ride, is just what you' re after. While these rides
are nice, most people who come to Xocomil do so for the water slides,
and for good reason. Let' s just say that after my first time on Xibalbá,
I didn' t need my monthly enema for another six months.
Overall, the food is a bit overpriced and the atmosphere a tad too
" Disney" for my liking, but there' s not too much else not
to like about the place, especially on a hot Spring day. So check them
out. The park is open from Thursdays to Sundays, from 9 am to 4 pm.
MARCH
2008
El Aprisco
If you take in your oxygen through respiration like I do, you might
have noticed that the air around Xela isn' t the world' s cleanest.
For this reason, it' s nice to take a walk in the woods every once in
awhile to see the forest for the trees....or the trees for the forest.
I never was very good at metaphors.
El Aprisco is an ecological park dedicated to conservation of the forests
of Totonicapán and the environmental education of Guatemala'
s youth. Located 5.5 kilometers outside of Totonicapán, you can
get there by taking a bus to Santa Cruz del Quiche and asking them to
drop you off at El Aprisco. Once you' re there, you' ll find that there'
s no shortage of fun things to do:
Bring a picnic to enjoy with the sounds of wind in the pines and the
stream flowing down the mountain. The park has grills and thatched-roof
picnic areas. Or order ahead for a traditional K' iche lunch for a reasonable
price.
Explore their 2 kilometer trail through the pine and fir forests to
learn about endangered species and the history of conservation in Totonicapán.
Visit their museum, which has exhibits on the culture and history of
Totonicapán, or watch a nature video in their theater.
Try your hand at bolas, saltacuerda, or other traditional
Mayan games or play soccer in the forest on one of their two fields.
Bring your binoculars and catch a glimpse of the Pink-headed warbler,
an endangered bird species which is locally common. Once you' ve found
the warbler, there are more than 65 other bird species waiting to be
discovered.
Reserve a space with one of their local guides to come along on a hike
in the vast communal forests. Hikes end at overlooks with views of the
entire Xela valley or of El Quiche.
Visit their medicinal garden and learn about traditional Mayan medicine
using these locally-grown plants.
Spend a night in one of their cabins, built in the traditional style
of Totonicapán. In the morning, wake to a bird-watching or sight-seeing
hike in the forest, or simply cook your breakfast over an open fire
and enjoy the sun and fresh air of the mountains.
MARCH
2008
Volcan Tajumulco
by Justin Hake
Tajumulco, Central America' s highest peak, towers over the region
with a colossal elevation of 4220 meters. A moderate hike for enthusiasts,
Tajumulco can offer quite a challenge for the average traveler. It has
long been one of the main draws for many extranjeros making
the highlands part of their Guatemalan adventure and rightly so; the
volcano lives up to its name, literally meaning " into the clouds."
Appearing as a slightly daunting task looking up from the base of the
volcano, the summit remains very much attainable in a single day. But
catching a stunning sunrise from the tallest point in Central America
begs the question: why not spend the night? The adventure begins just
before dawn on day one as we make our way to the town of San Marcos,
close to the Mexican border. From there, hop on a bus to Tacaná
and tell them to let you off at Volcán Tajumulco in Tuichán.
The hike starts at a small village and winds its way through corn milpas
and temperate farm land. The ascent immediately takes its toll
on some as the altitude begins to weigh in. Heavy breathing and profuse
sweating reach their limit as we are greeted with open pastures, perfect
for a break. A stretch of stunning pines and alpine wildflowers is all
that' s left before we pitch base camp at 4000 meters. After sunset,
dinner is served and everyone enjoys the tranquility and, weather permitting,
an impressive view of the stars. They seem almost close enough to touch.
Another predawn departure, day two starts off less friendly as hikers
have to shed their sleeping bags for fleeces and gloves. The morning
air is frigid and the wind sneaks up your spine with temperatures dipping
below zero degrees Celsius. After an hour of hiking, trekkers reach
the summit feeling an immense satisfaction with their recent accomplishment.
The sun slowly peaks over the horizon just in time to warm everyone'
s spirits and provide breathtaking views of Guatemala and neighboring
countries. In the distance, Volcán Santiaguito and Fuego say
hello with occasional burps of ash as we gaze out at the various volcanic
chains that make up Guatemala. It' s a view hikers won' t soon forget.
Justin Hake is full time volunteer for Quetzaltrekkers,
Xela´s all volunteer non-profit trekking company, located in Casa
Argentina, Diagonal 12, 8-37
FEBRUARY
2008
A Sunrise Over Atitlan
by Tad Bradley
"The most beautiful lake in the world." So said writer Aldous
Huxley of Lake Atitlán. For years, "The Lake" has captivated
poets, travelers and geologists with its shimmering deep-blue water,
quaint Mayan villages and spectacular volcanic peaks. While a bus will
get you there, the three day trek from Xela offers a much more adventurous
route. The journey begins in the small village of Xecam, just outside
Xela and easily accessible by bus from the Minerva terminal. The trail
ascends steeply through lush cloud forest. A brief break offers stunning
views of the Xela valley, Volcán Santa Maria and Volcán
Tajumulco, perched far on the horizon. As the trail crosses the dry,
wind-swept plateau "Alaska" (nicknamed so by the locals
due to its cold, somewhat inhospitable climate), trekkers will encounter
indigenous people hauling impossibly heavy loads and tilling their fields
of corn, peas and cabbage. Practice your K'iche, as Spanish is a distant
second language in this part of the highlands. Finishing the day in
the gritty mountain town of Santa Catarina, a traditional Mayan temascal,
or sauna, awaits. The second day starts with an easy stroll along a
mountainside trail and then a steep climb up a beautiful ridgeline,
offering fantastic views of the river valley below. Giggling children,
waddling pigs and crowing roosters greet hikers in the village of Tzucubal,
followed by lunch and a siesta in a picturesque valley. The trail then
meanders its way along the Payatza River, ending at the home of a local
family in the town of Santa Clara La Laguna, just above Lake Atitlán.
After a delicious dinner, the group relaxes around the campfire, roasting
marshmallows, trading stories and learning traditional K'iche songs.
Rising well before dawn, a short, starlit hike leads you to a viewpoint
500 meters above the lake. As the sun nears the horizon, it throws a
reddish-orange hue over the broken cloud ceiling and illuminates the
shadowy figures of the volcanoes San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán.
Earning Huxley's description, the sunrise over Lake Atitlán is
a quintessential Guatemalan experience and a well-deserved reward at
the end of this incredible trek.
Tad Bradley is full time volunteer for Quetzaltrekkers,
Xela´s only all volunteer non-profit trekking company, located
in Casa Argentina, Diagonal 12, 8-37
JANUARY
2008
A Full Moon Adventure
by Tad Bradley
Volcán Santa Maria. If you haven' t spied this volcanic beauty
yet, then either you just arrived and are still finding your way around
town or you have been spending WAY too much time at your Spanish school.
Located just 10 kilometers outside of Xela, it happens to be one of
the best and most accessible day trips in the area. That said, the best
way to experience the mountain is at night on a full-moon hike.
With cold hands curled around bowls of steaming hot soup, a group of
guides and hikers enjoy some much-needed sustenance before embarking
on this moonlit adventure. Just after midnight, the hikers take to the
trail, located on the edge of the small village of Llano de Pinal. As
the trekkers begin their ascent, their bobbling headlamps appear like
an earthly constellation. Though recently blazed anew, the path
to Santa Maria' s summit is no easy hike. Steep, full of switchbacks
and often slick, the darkness makes the ascent even more challenging.
High up on the flanks of the volcano, the group reaches a break in the
thick forest, where the glimmering lights of a sleeping Xela valley
are visible far below. The trail becomes steeper as the group nears
their goal, requiring the occasional rock scramble or assist from a
strong root. Finally, after five strenuous hours, the group reaches
the summit at 3,772 meters. A faint glow illuminates the eastern horizon,
the sun just beginning its rise into the early morning sky.
Below the summit, all huddle together in the frigid temperatures, the
multiple layers of clothing and shared sleeping bags fending off the
cold. As the night passes into dawn, guides heat water for hot drinks
and pass sandwiches to the snuggly-wrapped group. Visible 2,000 meters
below is the steaming crater of Volcán Santiaguito. As if on
cue, the volcano rumbles to life, venting massive columns of gas, steam
and ash skyward. The final touch on this spectacular show is the giant
westward shadow cast by Santa Maria. Despite the cold and the lack of
sleep, the group happily descends, the incredible images from atop Xela'
s volcanic jewel fresh in their minds.
Tad Bradley is full time volunteer for Quetzaltrekkers,
Xela´s only all volunteer non-profit trekking company, located
in Casa Argentina, Diagonal 12, 8-37
DECEMBER
2007
Climbing Into the Vapors
by Bryan Friedrichs
The coffeemaker rumbles into life in the Quetzaltrekkers office as
eight people huddle over plates of pancakes in nervous anticipation.
For most, today will mark the first experience climbing on natural rock.
They' ll do so in the sun, shade and wind of the vast volcanic field
perched above the village of Chicua. After a long hiatus, Xela´s
only non-profit trekking organization is once again taking new and experienced
climbers onto the cliffs around Xela. Two short rides up bumpy roads
and the group is standing among the houses and comedores of
Chicua. Above loom the boulder fields and rock walls home to one of
Guatemala´s largest concentrations of bolted climbs, as well as
large numbers of evangelical Christians that come to this remarkable
place to sing and pray. The entire city of Xela and the Almolonga valley
open up in a brilliant panorama as the group begins approaching the
most prominent cliff face. One of our volunteers leads the way through
a maze of small paths forming a T-angled weave in the volcanic rubble.
After explaining basic climbing technique and safety, our guides begin
strapping people into ropes and harnesses, helmets and shoes, and sending
them up the wall. Everyone steps onto the rock, working their way upwards,
figuring out the unusual movements that climbing requires. The morning
quickly fades into afternoon. After a lunch of sandwiches and salads
on this barren lava field it' s back to the rocks to attempt a longer
and more adventurous route. By the time 3pm arrives, everyone is feeling
the efforts of the day. After dismantling the anchors and packing up
the equipment we begin the short scramble down to Chicua, where a pickup
is waiting to transport tired bodies to the local steam saunas commonly
known as Los Vahos. The saunas are naturally heated to unbelievable
temperatures by the same volcanic processes that formed the rocks climbed
earlier in the day. Forty-five minutes of jumping from hot saunas to
cold showers later and everyone is feeling refreshed and relaxed. As
the sun begins to descend into the horizon, the group walks down through
fields of wild-flowers that empty into the heart of Xela. And here the
trip ends where it began, in the Quetzaltrekkers office in Casa Argentina,
with the smiles of a day well spent plastered on the faces of all.
Bryan Friedrichs is full time volunteer for Quetzaltrekkers,
Xela´s only all volunteer non-profit trekking company, located
in Casa Argentina, Diagonal 12, 8-37
NOVEMBER
2007
Siete Cruces
by Charlie Krause
With sharpened machetes, three of Quetzaltrekkers´
volunteers departed in the tranquility of predawn Xela to blaze a new
trail from Zunil to the magical hot springs of Fuentes Georginas. The
guides walked with a bounce in their step and the knowledge that, if
successful, they would be soaking in the hot spring water by early afternoon.
One of Quetzaltrekkers´ Guatemalan founders,
Guadalupe Pos, acted as the lead guide and was forced to rely upon his
past memory of the completely overgrown jungle trail. After winding
up a mountain path and passing through an old growth stand of beautiful
oak and pine trees, the group entered an alpine meadow and were provided
with a stunning view of Lago de Atitlán and the surrounding volcanoes.
Having successfully completed the most
difficult section of the trail, the group scrambled toward the summit
of the Zunil volcano. The trek, deemed Siete Cruces, transverses
seven crosses located at various sites along the mountain ridge. After
passing these crosses and climbing to the summit, the tired volunteers
took a short break to catch their breath. While
heading down the mountain toward their ultimate destination, the volunteers
were confronted with a seemingly impassable trail. Although Guadeloupe
danced through the jungle without the need of a true path, the other
members of the group were forced to use their machetes and blaze a trail
through the thick jungle. The adventure began. Sliding down the mountain
and crawling through cloud and bamboo forests, the Quetzaltrekkers cut
their way through six hours of intense jungle and found their way out
of the wilderness just before night fell.
Although the group failed to open the
path that day, the trail was successfully
finished one month later and Fuentes Georginas was linked to the summit
of the Zunil volcano. Quetzaltrekkers now offer this challenging single-day
hike to overly adventurous groups. All those interested should come
prepared for mud and blood…...
Charlie Krause is a full time volunteer for Quetzaltrekkers,
Xela´s only all volunteer non-profit trekking company, located
in Casa Argentina, Diagonal 12, 8-37
OCTOBER
2007
The Stone
Slides at El Baul
So you' re stuck with afternoon classes this week. Again. You' ve done
the whole eating breakfast in Central Park thing and you' re tired of
feigning interest in flash cards. You' ve already been to the fuentes
and are looking for something off the beaten path. El Baul, one of the
ten mountains that surround Xela, could be just what you need.
To get to El Baul, head due East from Parque Central on 6th calle until
it ends. From there, take a left at the T and a right at the first intersection.
Walk straight up the hill until you see a trail on your right. We' d
explain more, but we don' t want to insult your intelligence. It' s
a really big hill. You can' t miss it. The trail is fairly straightforward
and should take between thirty and sixty minutes to climb from the base.
Once at the top, check out the view of Xela from the mirador.
Continuing along, you' ll walk through a small park (monkey bars!) and
eventually come across the monument to former Guatemalan president Justo
Barrios. You may recognize him as the very same fellow on the 5 Quetzal
bill. Sweet beard.
If you proceed down the hill (away from Xela), you' ll find the pièce
de résistance of the trip: the stone slides. Borrow a flattened-out
three liter bottle or cardboard box from a local kid and slide away.
Just be careful; it' s a long way down.
SEPTEMBER
2007
Santiaguito
by Fedor Petrenko
Once
in a while, even the hardworking Quetzaltrekkers need an adventure of
their own. Last month, we closed up the office for two days and embarked
upon a mission to Guatemala’s most active crater, Volcan Santiaguito.
Local Guatemalan and good friend Eduardo who runs Kaqchikel Tours and
often works with geologists and volcanologists lead the way as we set
off for a ridge not 200 meters from the volcano. We trudged through
miles of cloudforest, along the flanks of neighboring Volcan Santa Maria,
down ancient lava flows into the valley separating us from Santiaguito,
and up a series of new craters, the last of which is Santiaguito itself.
Incredibly, the erosion around these newborn peaks has formed perfectly
smooth, soft, football field-sized expanses of sand in their interiors.
These misty playas are not only great for pitching a tent, but make
for an excellent barefoot frisbee session as well. The volcanic range
is completely covered with iridescent green moss. In places, hot steam
seeps from cracks in the rocks, giving the impression that you’re
climbing around a sleeping green dragon, and have happened on one of
its nostrils.
That evening, we sat on a fog-enshrouded precipice directly across from
the active crater, listening to the geological tumult. As the wispy
cloud cover dispersed, the mysterious sound effects materialized into
Santiaguito itself, looming alarmingly close. Through the mist, one
of its flanks glowed a crimson red, and the lava cooled into giant bus-sized
rocks as it came up to the surface. We watched with fascination as these
behemoths then broke off and careened down the mountainside, steaming
and shattering into a million pieces as they rolled.
The next morning we scrambled out of our beach camp and up to the lookout.
My image of the mountain as a living, breathing beast proved true -
as the light of dawn mingled with glow of lava, we suddenly heard a
sound like the rush of a jetplane, and a gigantic column of ash, gas,
and rocks shot several kilometers upwards with unbelievable speed. We
quickly put on our facemasks as embers swirled all around and we were
enveloped in the volcanic blizzard.
JUNE
2007
The Santa
Maria Lookout
Ok. So you’ve noticed that big beautiful mountain dominating
the Xela skyline, although you haven’t quite figured out what
the big ugly mountain next to it is. But you’re no mountain goat,
just someone who likes to get out of the bus fumes and into the fresh
country air once in a while. Well, this hike is so easy the only way
we could make it easier is if we told you to go mall walking.
That big beautiful mountain is Santa Maria – the most beautiful
mountain in Guatemala, in fact, and we’re going to take you to
the absolutely best view of it. The big ugly mountain is Cerro Quemada,
which makes sense if you’ve been paying attention to your Spanish
teacher’s lessons and not just his cute butt.
From the bottom of Parque Central, step into 12th Avenue and look up
at the Cristo Viene sign, avoiding being run over by either the cars
or the two goats stationed nearby. Guide’s tip: buy fresh goat
milk for hiking energy; the tuberculosis won’t kick in for a couple
of months.
Head south on 12th Ave, towards the Cristo sign. When it ends, hang
a right and look for Plazuela de San Antonio on your left. Take the
road to the right of the Plazuela, uphill. And uphill some more, then
a little bit more uphill before you pass the Alquimista turnoff and
eventually find yourself standing in front of the church, admiring the
knockout view of Xela.
Keep following the road (turning into a path) uphill and around a few
switchbacks and uphill some more until it straightens out for a while,
passing someone’s cute blue summer cottage on the right before
you come to an obvious corner of an aging but once great stone wall.
Here you take the straight path, not the 90-degree left that is probably
what most other people would be doing. You’re doing your own thing
here, not following the masses. Keep walking the obvious path, avoiding
multitudinous side paths that clearly don’t go anywhere you want
to go, since you don’t plan to hoe any corn today. In just under
9 minutes reach a dirt road. Take a right and follow it. Precisely 6
minutes later you will see a truly amazing Tree.
Unfortunately the view from the Tree is restricted, otherwise we’d
just stay here bathing in it until our bones turned to dust, or at least
until our feet turned pink and wrinkled. Take a right at the Tree, 15
giant steps, a big breath, look left, and take care not to swoon. That
big beautiful mountain is Santa Maria and it doesn’t get any bigger
or more beautiful from any other spot in the country. The big ugly thing
on your left is still Cerro Quemado.
From here you can retrace, or follow the grass road downhill 19 minutes
to the paved road (take a right) and another 22 minutes to your 2nd
glass of goat milk. One hour 20 minutes round trip.
MAY
2007
The Lava
Fields
There is a spectacular rock formation and lava field, within easy walking
distance of Xela, which is much visited by Guatemalans trying to get
closer to El Señor, but seldom seen by tourists. If you’ve
made a downpayment on a private excursion to the moon this makes a good
warm-up hike.
Stand in Xela’s Central Park and look downhill, over the ex-prison-cum-museum.
You will see the reassuring words Cristo Viene on the hillside. Hike
to there. (OK, newbies, take 12th Avenida south till it ends, find a
small park, notice the road to the right that switchbacks up the hill.)
Continue past the magnificent pastor’s residence, through the
football field, and past the vicious dog corner (a story that can’t
be told here). The path eventually straightens and you’ll find
yourself looking at the corner of a well-made stone wall. Take a left,
keeping the wall on your right. The path leads to a magnificent but
uninhabited round stone house, and a Y intersection. Take the left,
which eventually ends at a gravel road. A right leads to Los Vahos.
Take a left, which leads downhill.
After a short hike there is an obvious road to the right. Take it. The
first town you will reach has a name that, to prevent four-wheelers
from overrunning it, will not be revealed here. In the approximate center
of the town, look for a path to the right, up the rather imposing hill/cliff.
Every villager will be glad to give directions, and with a little courage
you’ll be on your way.
When you reach the cliff’s base, there are multiple options for
getting past it. You can pick along a trail to the left, find the permanent
rope dangling from a small crevasse in the approximate center, or pick
your way through boulders and other obstacles on the right. At all stages
you will be encouraged by graffiti and, most probably, assorted Guatemalan
worshippers who are having even more fun than you are.
Eventually you reach a spectacular lava field, to be explored at will.
The adventurous (and prepared), can cross the fields and climb Cerro
Candelaria.
To get home, retrace your steps. Or, take a right on the first road
after leaving the village, continue downhill and catch a bus (to the
left, downhill) carrying San Simon aficionados back to Xela from Zunil.
A half-day adventure, longer if you take lunch and enjoy sunbathing
on a lava field.
APRIL
2007
The Baths
of Life
Start in Zone 1 on 13th Avenida and head south towards the mountain.
When you get to a small roundabout take the cobblestone road on the
far side. It winds back and forth up the hillside.
Continue straight past the smaller cobblestone turnoff on your right
and the Evangelical church also on your right. You know you’re
on the right path when you come to a small dusty field and have to cross
it to go on.
Follow the rocky dirt road on the other side of the field, staying
to the left if in doubt and it will slowly become a grassy path with
stone fences on both sides. At one point you can go straight or left:
go left under the trees.
Take the dirt road left across the open fields when the path ends in
front of a stone house, ignoring the white road on your left that leads
steeply down into a village. The dirt road wraps around an aqua colored
building.
Go straight through the T-junction. Continue slowly going up. Pass
under the line of ancient trees and further on follow the “INGRESO”
sign to the small buildings on your left where the baths are. Entrance
is Q20/hr. and they are open from 5-9:30 every day (5896-9542). There
are two more rooms up above that aren’t as scolding hot and are
a little nicer. This is a truly wonderful place. On your way back try
taking that white road down through the village and see where it takes
you.
MARCH
2007
Towards Llanos
del Pinal
We began, picking up 7a Avenida at its junction with 11th Calle in
Zone 1 where it heads towards Zunil and Almalonga. After a brief, exhaust
shrouded walk up the steep mini-highway we took the inviting cobblestones
of a side road on the right just as 7a flattens out and veers left.
We followed the side road, hugging the hill side.
After a gated community we noticed that shiny cars were no longer passing
us and that no cars at all were passing after leaving a small pueblo
behind. The road became dirt, then rocky, then more just a footpath,
with fields of cultivated flowers stretching out on both sides and a
stunning view of sweeping mountains on our left.
There was a point where we questioned if the path would in fact continue;
just a one foot wide beaten earth snake weaving through fields and trees
but it always did.. On the final leg the plants had overgrown the chute-like
path and when we emerged we were at the paths end where it teed off
on 11th Calle once again.
This time we were on the wide and dusty section that leads east out
of Xela in the shadow of Santa Maria. Having left early we were back
by mid-day, the ten miles only taking us 5 or so hours.
FEBRUARY
2007
The San Cristobal
Waterfall
If you’ve ridden the bus between Xela and San Francisco El Alto
(possibly to see the huge Friday morning market – no tourists
and no souvenirs for sale) you may have seen the spectacular waterfall
on the other side of the river valley from the Panamerican Highway your
driver has decided is his private version of LeMans. You can hike to
this waterfall to enjoy the negative ions it generates and be home in
time for an organic tempeh brunch.
Your fist job is to get to the pure white church in San Cristobal Totonicipan.
Easiest is to take the bus to 4 Caminos and walk towards Huehuetenango
(away from Guatemala City – always a good idea) until you pass
under the huge sign with a picture of the church and a bottle of Gallo
on it (which comes first?), then headed left into town. Everyone but
you knows where the church is, so ask and ye shall receive directions.
With your back to the church door (do not, by the way, get confused
by the less than pure white church – that is the wrong one, probably
constructed by a breakaway sect) walk straight until you get to the
bottom of the waterfall, 15 or 20 minutes. That’s it – simple,
huh? Actually you will need to take a left after you have passed through
a largish metal gate at the end of the path (which started out as a
road). Be polite and say hello to the residents of the nearby house,
and their dogs. They have started a peach orchard so you’ll have
to come back in a few years to enjoy the fruits of their labor.
Pick your way to the bottom of the falls. Explore the left hand side,
looking for small trails, one of which takes you to the Mayan site where
you can find remnants of previous Sacerdote rituals. Take a trash bag
and fill it up with some of the plastic and glass left behind by worshippers
whose requests were hopefully denied.
To get to the top of the falls find a trail on the left side (facing
the falls) that takes you up and up and up. If the trail you pick (there
are more than a few) ends, turn back and try another. Not to worry,
a few minutes of exploring will produce positive results. You won’t
get lost, and you’ll get some aerobic exercise. At the top a trail
or two continues upstream. Pick your way along, crossing the water when
necessary. At the first point where you can obviously not continue doing
this, scramble up the right bank to find a well worn trail allowing
you to continue. Eventually you can climb obvious trails on the left
bank taking you to the town of Pachaj, from which a bus will deliver
you back to Xela.
The directions might sound a bit flaky, but there are multiple trails
at most points, and a little bit of exploring on your part will definitely
get you where you want to go.
JANUARY
2007
The Santiaguito
Lookout
Santiaguito is Guatemala’s most active volcano and one of the
10 most dangerous volcanoes in the world. Lucky for us a short morning
hike leads to a perfectly safe mirador.
From Iglesia Calvario next to Xela’s big cemetery take a bus to
Llano del Pinal. Tell the ayudante you are going to el volcan to make
sure you get out at the right spot, basically the main street. Walk
south, toward Santa Maria. Just before the end of town, on the left,
is a concrete monument to Guatemalan mountain climbers – the hike
starts here.
As you continue walking the street becomes a trail. Your first marker
(16 minutes) is a solitary gnarly oak tree. Another 10 minutes brings
you to a line of 12 agave trees on your right. Continue straight.
After 5 minutes you emerge to an open field with a white sign talking
about the bosque nuboso. Notice a grass/dirt road joins your trail from
the right, continue left passing corn fields at 2 and 3 minutes from
the sign. At 7 minutes pass a cabbage field on your right and face a
choice of straight ahead and up or to the right and down. Take the right.
Continue on this road like trail for a total of 20 minutes from the
sign, all downhill after the cabbages. At 15 minutes a T like intersection
requires a right, at the end you will emerge to a stunning view of the
flat, smoldering Xela dump.
Follow the obvious road to the right, then take obvious left turns on
dirt roads that allow you to circle the dump in a counter clockwise
direction and ultimately put you in its southwest corner, directly in
front of a swinging wooden gate and another bosque nuboso sign. The
gatekeeper is friendly, if he is there, the gate is climbable if he
is not.
Continue on the road for 18 minutes to a Y (and the 3rd sign), take
the downward choice to the left. Another 6 minutes and another Y, take
the left. Two minutes later you are at another wooden gate, this one
is locked and you will have to climb to cross. On a clear day you are
immediately looking due south at the western most summit of the four
headed Santiaguito monster – hike toward it. In fog head for a
solitary pila (concrete sink), then a solitary fence post, then another
solitary fence post, all downhill from the gate. By this time you should
recognize you are on or near what used to be a road – follow the
trail that winds down the middle of it.
Ignoring any cows you may encounter, continue down, passing through
a small bamboo grove at 8 minutes from the gate, vegetative change at
9, noticeable ash on the leaves at 10. You will then find the trail,
which has narrowed significantly, intentionally blocked with small brush.
Look to your left for scant remnants of a concrete foundation and a
grassy flat area. Step into it, turn right, and enjoy a close up view
of all four of Santiaguito´s peaks.
Enjoy an eruption or two. Retracing your steps should get you back on
the church steps 6 hours after your recommended early morning departure.
OCTOBER
2006
The Las Majadas
Circuit
As everyone knows Xela is the trekking capital of Guatemala, and if
you want to spend a couple of days backpacking to the top of Tajumulco
volcano or from Xela to Lake Atitlan this is the place to be. But sometimes
a hiker is a bit pinched on cash, having turned in all their empty Brava
bottles the night before to finance that last round at the local cantina.
Fortunately Xela has a lot to offer day hikers, be they with or without
money and hangovers. This month's featured hike covers territory seldom
explored by gringos, and has the advantage of being far more downhill
than uphill.
Santa Maria is the home of three basic dayhikes. One goes to the summit,
one goes to the Santiaguito mirador, and one goes, well, listen up.
First, catch a bus to Llano del Pinal from the front of the Iglesia
Calvario, next to the big Xela cemetery. Tell the ayudante you are going
to el volcan and he’ll make sure you get out at the right spot,
which is basically Llano's main street. Start walking south, toward
Santa Maria. Just before the end of town, on the left, is a concrete
monument to Guatemalan mountain climbers – measure all times from
here.
As you continue up the street it slowly turns into a trail. Your first
marker, 15 minutes into the hike, is a solitary oak tree, greatly abused
by Mother Nature but still majestic, in a gnarly sort of way. Continue
on the trail, remembering all options to turn eventually lead to the
same place, at least for the next 12 minutes, when you come to a very
important marker.
You will see a line of 12 or 13 agave trees on the right hand side of
the trail. If you go straight, as the trail beckons you to do, you’ll
be lost, so look to your left and climb up the small rocky hill. Note
you are essentially skirting to the left of a small wooded spur.
Another fifteen minutes brings you to a small flat field with closely
cropped grass. In the middle is a huge solitary boulder. You are now
headed downhill for the rest of the hike.
From here it’s only a question of following the path. Given an
option, always take the downhill fork. But don't worry – even
if you feel lost you are, in fact, not. The best part of the trail is
from the boulder to the small flower growing village of Las Majadas,
after which you will find a narrow dirt road descending to the Reu highway,
where you can take a bus (to the left) back to Xela. Total time is about
1.5 hours on buses and 2.5 hours walking, much of it on an absolutely
exquisite trail with spectacular views and almost no gringos.
