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DECEMBER 2007
Ziplining in Pana
Unless you’re an avid naturalist, hiking and kayaking can get a little old after the fourth volcano (another eruption - yawn) and yet another trip across the lake (yep, still a good view). And if you’re in the minority of Atitlán backpackers who don’t smoke pot, you’re bound to run out of interesting things to do at the lake after a week or so. Fear not, dear readers, for once again we’re here to get your alcohol-saturated blood pumping.
To get to the zipline, head over to Calle Santander in Panajachel. At the top of the street, proceed left towards Solala. In five minutes or so, you’ll come to a sign marking the Reserva Atitlán. Follow this path straight past Hotel Atitlán until you see the entrance to Reserva Atitlán. For Q120, you get 6 zipline rides, the longest of which is almost 1,000 feet across and thousands of feet high. The entrance fee also includes access to a monkey reserve and a butterfly farm. I’m not sure how many of you will take advantage of this, but there’s always at least one in the crowd.
We began our afternoon by putting on our gear: a crotch harness that made me wonder if they had a deal with male fertility pharmaceutical companies and a helmet that got me thinking: if I were to fall the blank feet to the bottom of the gorge, what in the hell is a helmet going to do?! Deep breaths.
The views of the lake from the zipline were breathtaking and the ride exhilarating. Taking off the harness alone make me happy to be alive. Be sure to wait until the wind dies down; one of my compañeras was hit with a big gust and got stuck in the middle of the zipline for a few heart-stopping minutes. Needless to say, a change in pants was in order. Brown stains notwithstanding, ziplining was a welcome change of pace from the idle tranquillity of the lake.
PAST TRIPS.... |
OCTOBER 2007
Rock Jumping in San Marcos
We know what you’re thinking: “Guatemala’s great and all, but I sure do miss jumping off of slippery rocks from dangerous altitudes.” Lucky for you, so did we. “But isn’t San Marcos only for tree-hugging, meditation-loving, zen-seeking posers?” It is. But it has big rocks too, so bear with us.
To get to the rocks from San Pedro, proceed to the Santiago dock (see map on page 40). For the less hung-over crowd, kayaks can be rented for Q10/hour from any one of the friendly professional gringo extorters who congregate around the docks. If you need directions, they’ll be happy to point the way out for you. Alternatively, you can rent a private launch for around Q200 for a few hours. This is probably the best option if you’re shacking up with a fat chick, as the lake is deep and kayaks are only so buoyant.
As you arrive, you will see a large rock to your left. It will be around 25 feet high (that’s roughly eight meters for all you dirty Scandinavians). Jump off of it. If that’s not enough to get your blood flowing, follow the trail above the rock to your right to get to a rock we estimate to be anywhere
between 45 and 1,000 feet high [Ed. My apologies. Our writing staff is rarely sober and prone to exaggeration]. The water is deep. We promise.
So if you’re in San Pedro and need an adrenaline rush – and don’t have the money for drugs or the charm to get laid – rock jumping in San Marcos just might be for you.
OCTOBER 2007
Exploring San Marcos
by Tucker Pawlick
More so even than other tourist destinations in Guatemala, San Marcos la Laguna exists as two separate realities imposed on top of each other. Virtually all tourists pass their time in the many restaurants and hotels near the water, while most residents live higher up in the valley. No guide will mention it, but by hiking up through the residential section of town, which is beautiful in its own right, you will come to a series of trials that climb for miles up the surrounding mountainside and end in a series of shallow caves.
To reach these trails, head straight up the main road that leads into town from the left side of the docks. After 5 minutes you will come to the town square. You can walk up through the square, or turn left and take your next right, where the road becomes thoroughly steep. Walking up this road, you will pass the houses of Cakchiquel residents, cooking on open fires, weaving on hand looms, and appearing pleasantly surprised that a gringo has made it up this high, or maybe gotten lost.
This road turns directly into a footpath that starts the journey into the forest. Continue hiking and you will come across hillsides of coffee plants, avocado trees, orange trees, and a host of other fruits and vegetables which I could not begin to name. The hike is particularly rewarding for birders; in my brief adventure I encountered about a dozen different species. About twenty minutes up the trail, you will come to a huge rock outcrop on your left hand side, facing cliffs upwards of 150 feet high. These cliffs slant inwards at the bottom, forming a series of shallow caves. Some of the Cakchiquel from San Marcos come here to perform religious and healing rites. Needless to say, such ceremonies should not be interrupted, and the trail is far enough away from the caves that this should not be a problem.
I made a three hour trip out of this hike, and did not come close to the end of the trails. To get back down, you can simply turn around, follow the crystal clear river that leads to the center of town, or improvise. You’re sure to come across something interesting. |
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THE
SAN PEDRO VOLCANO |
by John J. McGraw |
| Coming upon Lake Atitlan for the first
time, the looming volcanoes let you know this isn’t
just any other lake. Like great Mayan pyramids, these dormant
cones imbue the area with mystery. While some of the volcanoes
are relatively remote, Volcan San Pedro stands just above
the popular backpackers’ stop of the same name.
Recently I was glad to wake up to clear skies, the better
my chances to have good views from the top of Volcan San Pedro.
I dressed lightly and headed across town to meet the other
hikers and our guide, a lithe Tz’utujil named Adrian.
He hikes the volcano 3-4 days a week with groups organized
through Bigfoot (Q100). Adrian led us through town until the
settlement merged with the jungle/woods, then onto a path
which we followed until we reached the highway that snakes
from San Pedro around the volcano to Santiago Atitlan and
beyond. After about a kilometer we reached the visitors’
center at the entrance to the volcano path. Adrian paid our
entrance fees and we began on the path which dropped down
from there - this was the last downward slope we would see
until we came back this way.
The path began climbing up through lush forested areas and
eventually took us through cornfields high on the volcano’s
slopes. Higher up the terrain became noticeably alpine. The
hiking was merciless, a steep incline that never let up…
a real calf burner! If you’re not in reasonable shape,
I wouldn’t attempt this trip.
The top of the volcano offered panoramic views of the entire
lake. This was the first time that I had seen the whole lake
rather than just some piece of it. We sat enjoying the views
from the top and resting for half an hour before heading back
down. It can get chilly on the peak so bring that extra sweater.
Heading down was less difficult on the lungs but much harder
on the knees and hips. Each step has to be placed carefully
due to the steep and usually muddy terrain. A good pair of
shoes is crucial. After you finish this stunning but challenging
hike you’ll definitely want some down time and a soak
in one of San Pedro’s hot tub establishments. Your legs
won’t allow you to do much for a day or two, so sit
back and enjoy San Pedro for a while.
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THE
SAN ANTONIO HOT SPRINGS |
| One of the best day trips from
San Pedro is one that surprisingly few people actually do. It’s
not that much of a surprise, really - the San Antonio hot springs
don’t get a mention in many of the guide books and local tour
operators seem to be reluctant to push them as an option.
These aren’t your average hot springs. What happens here is
that volcanically-heated water leaks out of the hillside and straight
into the lake, where it mixes with the cold lake water. The cool
thing about this setup is that you can choose your temperature -
where the hot water comes out of the mountain side, it’s almost
unbearably hot, but further away it gets more tepid and pleasant.
One important thing - you should definitely go in the morning. Around
noon the Xocomil (the wind over the lake) springs up, making the
lake waters choppy and mixing the hot and cold waters, resulting
in a drastic drop in temperatures.
Access is tricky - the hillside is privately owned, so you have
to get there by private lancha, and then jump in the water straight
off the side of the boat. The setting is about as rustic as it gets.
The lakeshore is rocky and it takes a while to find a good flat
rock with a good water temperature to sit on. But once you find
that rock, you’re in heaven.
Figuring out the best way of getting there involves a bit of number
crunching - the site is actually half way between Santa Catarina
and San Antonio, so the lanchas in Pana charge Q150 for two people
and Q250 for six (this is round trip, including waiting time). But
coming from San Pedro, you have to figure in Q40 per person round
trip to Pana. A lancha from San Pedro direct charges Q400 for a
group of 4 or 6, a little more for larger groups.
In summary: If you’ve got a group together, go from San Pedro.
If it’s just you and a friend, Pana’s your best bet.
Whichever way you go, soaking in steamy lake waters, looking up
at volcanoes is an unforgettable experience, and one that you should
definitely check out.
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Buddha Bar:
click here for more info
Mikaso :
click here for more info
Hotel El Amanecer :
click here for more info
Paradise Properties:
click here for more info
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